Maison Margiela Artisanal Haute Couture S/S 2024 Paris

[Lola701]

As well made as they are, setting those clothes in that environment made them look even more like period costumes that precisely belongs in a museum.
It makes this collection even more detached from the reality. Those clothes won’t inform the world in 10 years on the state of fashion in 2024 or even on the state of Haute Couture currently.

Instead of helding an exhibition on the Artisanal, why we didn’t get any news on the FW RTW?

 

[tourbillions]

yeah would have been cool if they exhibited it in a more day to day environment. I feel like styling aside, the collection was very commercial and wearable. Way more than the usual galliano collections.

 

[gallianostan]

the terrible models and choreography made it feel like a circus unfortunately. john’s 90s and early 2000s girls would never.

 

[tourbillions]

they should have saved the theatrics in the indoors runway and strutted properly outdoor. im sad we didnt get the rtw version of the collection

 

[jeanclaude]

The more I see of it, the more I love it. It´s not about 2024 and nowadays fashion, it is just a trip inside Galliano´s mind.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

As well made as they are, setting those clothes in that environment made them look even more like period costumes that precisely belongs in a museum.
It makes this collection even more detached from the reality. Those clothes won’t inform the world in 10 years on the state of fashion in 2024 or even on the state of Haute Couture currently.

Instead of helding an exhibition on the Artisanal, why we didn’t get any news on the FW RTW?

It's the tricky thing with Galliano's design oeuvre and ethos that doesn't translate as well is it does today compared to back then when he goes this far with it.

I do also think he is tapping into the mindset of now when it comes to the fashion fanatics because the show and this presentation is so heavy handed but to many it'll be "aesthetic". It's a shame, because some of these pieces need better and dare I say more clinical lighting both in this and the show to really make it easier to appreciate.

Ahhhh to have this collection simply styled and paired with simple tabi sling backs, reconned tank tops, gilets and beautiful sheath like skirts and dresses without so much set dressing. Margiela - even with the couture division - has always been about extrapolating and pulling apart the everyday and the street as a way of redifining clothes that still have a strong sense of familiarity and ease. Truly more artisanal, less period piece.

 

[vogue28]

A video from Vogue with John Galliano, Gwendoline Christie and Pat McGrath:

 

[gallianostan]

why is he obsessed with her? she's a dreadful model and doesn't belong in any of his shows. ugh. barf. nice to hear from him though. and pat is always a joy

i can't believe they highlighted the casting when that was literally the worst part of the show??

 

[tourbillions]

they need to follow it up asap

 

[jeanclaude]

Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 Collection by John Galliano photographed by Steven Meisel for Vogue Magazine

licdn.com/

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Not taking credit for being the historian lol but it looks like that section of dresses was all Vionnet inspo!

 

[LadyJunon]

Not taking credit for being the historian lol but it looks like that section of dresses was all Vionnet inspo!

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To be fair, Vionnet is a huge influence in Galliano's work. He was partially responsible for the slip-dress trend in the 90s, which uses her bias-cut techniques to create that slinky, clingy effect on woven fabric.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Oh I'm not saying it in a derogatory way like he stole lol, those dresses are completely relevant to what he was trying to say. I'm sure he had the old photos of them in action and had the team create something new from the memory of the feeling they evoked.

 

[gallianostan]

Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 Collection by John Galliano photographed by Steven Meisel for Vogue Magazine

licdn.com/

either these models truly are worse than i thought or meisel isn't serving like he used to... it takes a certain kind of nuMagic to make john galliano's clothes look dull lol

 

[blueorchid]

@gallianostan Oh, Meisel is definitely phoning it in... like he has for the last decade, maybe longer. Don't let the Mieselistas catch you saying that, though.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Nice to see Olga with Meisel, she was in some fantastic Lanvin campaigns shot by him. This is really bad though. I'm more bothered by the way the set and lighting looks more than anything. Sure the models don't look great, but the choreography of the show itself was an awkward eyesore so this kind of matches that.

 

[jeanclaude]

either these models truly are worse than i thought or meisel isn't serving like he used to... it takes a certain kind of nuMagic to make john galliano's clothes look dull lol

The models are not as powerful as they used to be.

 

[NakedAndAfraid]

The Meisel photo feels like a promotional photo for a movie that came out months ago and everyone saw and forgot about already. Just saying the obvious: the current model of magazines doesn't work/excite. The photo/s don't bring anything new to the table, like a new context for the looks or casting or anything...?!?

 

[Lola701]

It might look wonderful on prints and also be a wonderful wallpaper… But it seals even more this collection in a time capsule totally detached from the present.
Nothing about it feels modern. And it’s not even about the inspiration itself. It looks like a rehash rather than an homage…

I’m more excited about Meisel being a witness of his time than Recreating a rehash.

 

[tourbillions]

they need to place these clothes somewhere more conventional in photoshoots. just recreating the show vibes isn't doing it any good.